Wave Spectrum Changes on Sloped Beach

by Bernard Le Mehaute, (M.ASCE), Prof.; Dept. of Ocean Engrg., Univ. of Miami, Fla. 33149,
John D. Wang, (M.ASCE), Assoc. Prof.; Dept. of Ocean Engrg., Univ. of Miami, Miami, Fla. 33149,

Serial Information: Journal of the Waterway, Port, Coastal and Ocean Division, 1982, Vol. 108, Issue 1, Pg. 33-47

Document Type: Journal Paper


A comparison of all the different approaches to analyze the problem of wave spectrum change on a sloped beach is presented. It is shown how the heuristic, theoretical and numerical formulations compare or differ. It is shown that the transformation of a deep water directional spectrum into a shallow water directional spectrum can be done with little more effort than computing a one-dimensional spectrum by development of an inverse direction function only.

Subject Headings: Wave spectrum | Slopes | Beaches | Comparative studies | Algorithms | Numerical methods | Shallow water | Dimensional analysis

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