Wave Energy Transformation Over Irregular Bottom

by John C. Shiau, Stone and Webster, Inc., Boston, Mass.; formerly, Research Assoc., Dept. of Civ. Engrg., Univ. of Delaware, Newark, Del.,
Hsiang Wang, Visiting Prof.; Inst. for Wasserbau, Braunschweig, West Germany; on leave from Dept. of Civ. Engrg., Univ. of Delaware, Newark, Del.,

Serial Information: Journal of the Waterway, Port, Coastal and Ocean Division, 1977, Vol. 103, Issue 1, Pg. 57-68

Document Type: Journal Paper


A numerical model has been developed to determine shallow water wave spectra at designated spatial locations in an area where the bottom topography is irregular. The required input is either deepwater wave spectra or measured wave spectra at the seaward boundary. The model is a linear one and is based on the assumption that the wave energy associated with a narrow frequency band stayed with the band upon refraction. Energy dissipation has been neglected. The model was verified with analytical solutions for the case of two-dimensional parallel bottom contours and compared well with field measurements at locations beyond the surf zone.

Subject Headings: Wave spectra | Hydro power | Numerical models | Two-dimensional models | Water waves | Wave measurement | Shallow water | Hydrologic models

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