Wave-Induced Mass Transport in Water Waves

by Robert A. Dalrymple, (A.M.ASCE), Asst. Prof.; Dept. of Civ. Engrg. and Coll. of Marine Studie, Univ. of Delaware, Newark, Del.,

Serial Information: Journal of the Waterways, Harbors and Coastal Engineering Division, 1976, Vol. 102, Issue 2, Pg. 255-264

Document Type: Journal Paper


The Eulerian mass transport under water waves is studied for an inviscid fluid using finite amplitude wave theories. The distribution of the transport over the water depth for example waves is shown to be confined to a region above the wave trough and is of lesser magnitude than predicted by Airy wave theory. A measured mean velocity is defined to examine the effect of time—averaging over the duration of immersion, and its variation over the water column is also shown. Finally, the presence of a linear shear current in the direction of the wave is shown to alter the total mass transport principally by superposition.

Subject Headings: Water waves | Mass transport | Water supply systems | Fluid velocity | Columns | Linear functions | Shear waves

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