Shallow Water Surface Wave Elevation Distributions

by Edward F. Thompson, (A.M.ASCE),

Serial Information: Journal of the Waterway Port Coastal and Ocean Division, 1980, Vol. 106, Issue 2, Pg. 285-289

Document Type: Journal Paper


Many widely used engineering formulas dealing with wind-generated waves have been derived with the assumption that the distribution of instantaneous sea surface elevations is described by the Gaussian distribution law. When real wave conditions are not well described by the Gaussian law, the propriety of theses formulas and designs based upon these formulas is questionable. The validity of the Gaussian assumption for shallow water surface wave elevation distributions is examined in this not.

Subject Headings: Surface waves | Gaussian process | Shallow water | Water surface | Water waves | Wind engineering | Wind forces | Seas and oceans

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