American Society of Civil Engineers


Direct Formula to Compute Wave Height and Angle at Incipient Breaking


by Magnus Larson, (Professor, Dept. of Water Resources Engineering, Lund Univ., Box 118, 22100 Lund, Sweden), Le Xuan Hoan, (corresponding author), (Graduate student, Dept. of Water Resources Engineering, Lund Univ., Box 118, 22100 Lund, Sweden; and, Graduate Student, Institute of Mechanics, Vietnamese Academy of Science and Technology, 264 Doi Can, Hanoi, Vietnam E-mail: Hoan.Le_Xuan@tvrl.lth.se), and Hans Hanson, M.ASCE, (Professor, Dept. of Water Resources Engineering, Lund Univ., Box 118, 22100 Lund, Sweden)

Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal and Ocean Engineering, Vol. 136, No. 2, March/April 2010, pp. 119-122, (doi:  http://dx.doi.org/10.1061/(ASCE)WW.1943-5460.0000030)

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Document type: Technical Note
Abstract: The purpose of this technical note is to present a new formula to compute the incipient breaking wave properties based on a simplified solution of the wave energy flux conservation equation combined with Snell’s law. The execution time and calculated results of the new formula were compared with those of the iterative method which is commonly used in coastal engineering calculations, including in shoreline response modeling. The new formula could be used instead of the iterative method to save calculation time for application in coastal engineering.


ASCE Subject Headings:
Breaking waves
Energy
Computation
Height

Author Keywords:
Breaking wave
Incipient breaking
Wave properties
Wave energy flux
Wave condition
Iterative method
New formula