American Society of Civil Engineers


Nearshore Directional Wave Measurements for Regional Coastal Management


by Hans H. Dette, M.ASCE, (Academic Director, Dr.-Ing., Department of Hydrodynamics and Coastal Engineering, Leichtweiss-Institute for Hydraulics, Technical University Braunschweig, Beethovenstr. 51a, 38106 Braunschweig, Germany, E-mail: h.dette@tu-bs.de)
Section: Wave Hindcasting and Climate I, pp. 600-609, (doi:  http://dx.doi.org/10.1061/40604(273)62)

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Document type: Conference Proceeding Paper
Part of: Ocean Wave Measurement and Analysis (2001)
Abstract: For the determination of protection standard afforded by an existing or recharged beach extreme wave parameters may be needed. The long term behaviour of beaches and dunes, however, is more dependent on the regional wave climate, which e.g. allows to predict the overall longshore movement of beach material. The wave direction in this context is the most sensitive parameter. Up to nowadays wave hindcasting models were the most reliable source for wave directional information. Nowadays directional wave recording are a reliable tool to determine deep water wave climate and to perform investigations on a site-specific basis. Wave directional wind and water level recordings over a period of 15 years and their interrelations are used to describe a concept of setting up a long term hindcasted nearshore wave data base (50 years) in form of hourly directional wave parameter information. Besides applications of the data for the purposes of structural design and for the longterm maintenance of a coastal region are outlined.


ASCE Subject Headings:
Data analysis
Measurement
Nearshore
North Sea
Ocean waves
Statistics
Wave climates