Stochastic Determination of Wave Heights for Flood Control Channels
Physical model data for subcritical and supercritical flow has been collected and analyzed to determine a statistically-based relationship for wave runup heights in a trapezoidal channel....
Second Order Directional Wave Kinematics in Shallow Water
A theory numerical procedure were developed earlier to represent a real sea by the sum of many linear and second order directional wave components. Earlier publications showed that including...
Evaluation of Depth-Limited Wave Breaking Criteria
Numerous criteria exists for predicting incipient wave breaking. These criteria were verified with a limited number of data sets or under limited number of data sets or under limited beach...
Design of an In-Situ Directional Wave Gage for One Year Deployments
This paper describes the design and implementation of a new in-situ, directional wave gage that records hourly directional spectra continuously during a 13-month deployment period. If...
Wave Attenuation at the Mobile Stable Berm
This paper describes work examining the ability of submerged berms to `filter' certain erosive wave energy while allowing accretionary type waves to pass unhindered. Analysis of wave data...
Experimental Study of Monochromatic Wave-Ebb Current Interaction
Laboratory experiments were conducted in a 26-m by 36-m basin with a 1:30 plan beach to study the interaction of monochromatic waves and an ebb current in and near shallow entrance channel....
Decay of Random Waves on Non-Monotonic Profiles
A model is presented to calculate the decay of random waves in the surf zone with special focus on non-monotonic profiles. A wave-by-wave approach is employed to derive a model that requires...
Waves Propagating on an Adverse Jet
A laboratory investigated was conducted of the propagation of waves on an adverse three-dimensional jet. The problem which was simulated was the ebb-tide flow from a tidal inlet into a...
An Offshore Island Wave Sheltering Model
The wave climate along Southern California Coastal area is greatly modified by the existing systems of natural islands shown. As deep water wave approach the nearshore area, they generally...
A New Correction Procedure for Shipborne Wave Recorder Data
A new correction procedure for Shipborne Wave Recorder (SBWR) wave height and spectral data is described. The method is based on a reassessment of the available frequency response measurements...
Design Waves and Wave Spectra for Engineering Applications
Thirteen years of hourly wave data measured at two of the National Data Buoy Center's (NDBC) buoy stations, one located in the northeastern Pacific and the other located in the northwestern...
The Determination of Typhoon Design Wave By Synthetic Probibility Method
In summer and autumn, typhoons always take place in the northwest pacific. in the northern hemisphere, the typhoon is a large, anticlockwise, atmospheric eddy. Due to the strong wind speed,...
Oxygenation Experiments in the Wave Breaking Zone
Experiments on oxygenation due to waves breaking on a uniformly sloping beach were carried out at the laboratory of Harbor Works, National Technical University of Athens. The influence...
Development of Detached Breakwater Design Criteria Using a Shoreline Response Model
An evaluation of beach response to detached breakwaters was conducted using the numerical shoreline response model GENESIS. Functional design parameters such as structure length, gap distance,...
The Effect of Wave Grouping on the Characteristic Wave Height
Wave data from two field stations and from the laboratory tests have been analyzed. The groupiness factor is used to categorize the wave data for the discussion of the correlation between...
Critical Examination of Longshore Transport Rate Magnitude
Inconsistencies in the field data and predictions of longshore sediment transport (LST) rates associated with the CERC and Bagnold formulae are discussed. Practical errors in direct application...
Alongshore Sediment Transport Rate Distribution
The initial analysis of a new set of experimental data on alongshore sediment transport rate distribution is presented. The distributions were generally found to be bimodal but tended...
Evaluation of Beach Erosion and Accretion Predictors
This paper examines the capability of simple criteria to predict whether a beach will erode or accrete by wave-induced cross-shore sand transport. Emphasis is on beach change of engineering...
Computer Simulation of Shore-Normal Variations in Sediment Size
A computer simulation model is presented which is designed to predict the selective shore-normal sorting of grain sizes in the nearshore environment. The model simulates wave shoaling,...
Assessment of Cyclical Wave Damage for Small Basin Harbors
Since the construction of Oceanside Harbor in Southern California in 1963, continuous wave penetration into the inner harbor has caused significant damage to dock systems, revetments,...
Return to search