Relationship between Beach Morphodynamics and Equilibrium Profiles


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by R. Medina, Ocean & Coastal Research Group. Dept. de Ciencias y Técnicas del Agua y del Medio Ambiente. Universidad de Cantabria. 39005 Santander, Spain, medina@puer.unican.es.,
A. M. Bernabeu, Dept. de Geociencias Marinas y Ordenación del Territorio. Universidad de Vigo. 36200, Vigo, Spain,
C. Vidal, Ocean & Coastal Research Group. Dept. de Ciencias y Técnicas del Agua y del Medio Ambiente. Universidad de Cantabria. 39005 Santander, Spain,
M. González, Ocean & Coastal Research Group. Dept. de Ciencias y Técnicas del Agua y del Medio Ambiente. Universidad de Cantabria. 39005 Santander, Spain,



Document Type: Proceeding Paper

Part of: Coastal Engineering 2000:

Abstract: In this paper a new beach equilibrium formulation, that treats the shoaling portion of the profile independently from that of the breaking portion, is proposed. The two portions are matched at the breaking point. The formulation considers wave reflection from the beach and the tidal variation of the sea level. Both profiles are represented by a similar expression that depends on two parameters: A and C, which account for wave dissipation and B and D, which account for beach reflection. The parameters are then calibrated using over 50 profiles from 13 beaches along the Spanish Coast.

Subject Headings: Beach profiles | Equilibrium | Coastal processes | Sediment transport | Wave reflection | Parameters (statistics) | Shoals |

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