Theoretical Study on Beach Profile Evolution Including Swash Zone


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by Yoshiaki Kawata, Professor; Research Center for Disaster Reduction Systems, Disaster Prevention Research Institute, Kyoto University, Gokasho, Uji, Kyoto, 611-0011, Japan, (kawata@drs.dpri.kyoto-u.ac.jp),
Akihiro Kimura, Postdoctral Researcher, Research Center for Disaster Reduction Systems, Disaster Prevention Research Institute, Kyoto University, Gokasho, Uji, Kyoto, 611-0011, Japan, (kimura@drs.dpri.kyoto-u.ac.jp),



Document Type: Proceeding Paper

Part of: Coastal Engineering 2000:

Abstract: The estimation of sediment transport rate in swash zone has a great influence on offshore beach profile evolution. However, the method to estimate it has not been established, because the phenomenon is complex and numerical analysis is difficult. In this paper we apply nonlinear long wave theory to analyze sediment transport in swash zone. It is found that the characteristics of water particle velocity and undertow influence the rate of sediment transport in the cross-shore direction and sediment transport rate becomes very large in swash zone. And the characteristics of sediment transport in swash zone are different from those in the offshore region.

Subject Headings: Sediment transport | Wave runup | Beach profiles | Transport rates | Particle velocity | Coastal processes | Water supply systems | Nonlinear waves |

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