A Simple Method for Evaluating Undertow Velocity Distributions over Arbitrary Beach Forms


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by Daisuke Aoike, Graduate Student; Dept. of Civil Eng., Univ. of Tokyo, Hongo-7, Bunkyo-ku, Tokyo, 113-8656.,
Akira Watanabe, Professor; Dept. of Civil Eng., Univ. of Tokyo, Hongo-7, Bunkyo-ku, Tokyo,113-8656., watanabe@coastal.t.u-tokyo.ac.jp.,
Masahiko Isobe, Professor; Inst. of Environmental Studies, Univ. of Tokyo, Hongo-7, Bunkyo-ku, Tokyo,113-8656.,



Document Type: Proceeding Paper

Part of: Coastal Engineering 2000:

Abstract: A new method is proposed for evaluating the cross-sectional distributions of the undertow (return flow) velocity in a surf zone over arbitrary bottom-forms in a fairly simple manner. It is based on an energy budget concept, a surface roller model and a Boussinesq-type wave equation set including a breaker-induced momentum diffusion term. Validity and applicability of this method for various wave and beach conditions are examined by comparing computed undertow velocity distributions with laboratory measurements.

Subject Headings: Velocity distribution | Undertow | Fluid velocity | Beaches | Arbitration | Ocean waves | Wave measurement | Wave velocity | Wave equations | Cross sections |

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