Wave Induced Velocities at a Rubble Mound Breakwater


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by Bruno Brunone, (M.ASCE),
Giuseppe R. Tomasicchio,



Document Type: Proceeding Paper

Part of: Coastal Engineering:

Abstract: An experimental study has been carried out concerning horizontal velocities induced by a regular wave acting on a rough permeable steep slope. Time-histories of vertical distributions of the horizontal component of local velocity observed for all the considered wave conditions have been compared with results from 1st and 2nd order wave theories. Further analysis has concerned water surface elevation, depth-averaged velocity and uniformity level of velocity profiles. For both local and global characteristics of velocity field, results from wave theories expected to apply are not in good agreement with experimental data. 1st order theory appears satisfactory for the shorter waves but departs significantly from data as the Ursell number increases.

Subject Headings: Wave velocity | Breakwaters | Riprap | Breaking waves | Coastal environment |

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