A Comparison of Wave Statistics in Uni- and Multidirectional Shoaling Seas

by Andrew M. Cornett, NRC Coastal Engineering Program, Ottawa, Canada,
Okey G. Nwogu, NRC Coastal Engineering Program, Ottawa, Canada,



Document Type: Proceeding Paper

Part of: Ocean Wave Measurement and Analysis

Abstract: the transformation of six unidirectional and multidirectional seas propagating over a 1:25 planar beach are examined in a series of laboratory experiments. In all cases, the mean wave direction is normal to the bathymetric contours. Changes to frequency spectra, directional distributions, wave asymmetries, and the distribution of wave heights and crest elevations, are examined through the shoaling and surf zones. Wave multidirectionality greatly reduces the growth of long-waves, and slightly reduces the growth of wave energy at higher harmonics of the fundamental peak frequency. In all cases, unidirectional waves exhibited greater increases in wave heights and crest elevations through the shoaling zone. The effect of multidirectionality on wave asymmetries, and the distribution of wave heights and crest elevations, is small compared to the overall changes throughout the nearshore.

Subject Headings: Wave shoaling | Water waves | Wave crest | Seas and oceans | Frequency response | Frequency distribution | Wave spectrum | Asymmetry

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