Evaluation of Beach Erosion and Accretion Predictorsby Nicholas C. Kraus, U.S. Army Engr Waterways Expt Stn, Vicksburg, United States,
Magnus Larson, U.S. Army Engr Waterways Expt Stn, Vicksburg, United States,
David L. Kriebel, U.S. Army Engr Waterways Expt Stn, Vicksburg, United States,
Abstract: This paper examines the capability of simple criteria to predict whether a beach will erode or accrete by wave-induced cross-shore sand transport. Emphasis is on beach change of engineering interest such as associated with storm erosion, poststorm recovery, and seasonal wave conditions. The criteria, originally developed based on data from small and large tanks and monochromatic waves, correctly predict most erosion and accretion events in a newly compiled field data set encompassing beaches around the world. Previous studies that found such criteria unsuccessful are reviewed and found to be questionable. Correspondence between events in the field with random waves and in large wave tanks with monochromatic waves is obtained if mean wave height is used in field applications; however, any statistical wave height can be used by adjustment of one empirical coefficient in each criterion. Two dimensionless parameters (fall speed parameter and a newly introduced Froude number) used in some criteria are shown to be related to a critical wave energy dissipation needed to suspend sediment.
Subject Headings: Random waves | Wave tanks | Erosion | Beach accretion | Sand waves | Sand (hydraulic) | Wave height | Parameters (statistics)
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