Long Wave Effects in Laboratory Studies of Cross-Shore Transportby William R. Dally, Florida Inst of Technology, Melbourne, United States,
Abstract: A movable bed physical model study was conducted to investigate the influence of trapped low frequency energy on wave transformation and beach profile evolution. Using identical drive signals to create random waves, one test was run in short bursts (5 min each), whereas a second was run in long bursts (30 min each), both for a total duration of 180 min. Comparison shows that seiching induced during the long-burst test had a marked effect on the equilibrium profile and the shape of wave spectra, but little influence on wave statistics and the rate of profile evolution.
Subject Headings: Random waves | Physical models | Water waves | Hydrologic models | Movable bed models | Model analysis | Long waves | Laboratory tests
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