A Transformation Technique to Generate a Shallow-Water Directional Wave Climateby Robert E. Jensen, US Army Engineer Waterways, Experiment Station, Coastal, Engineering Research Cent, Vicksburg, MS, USA,
Abstract: The shallow-water wave data must be computed as to be representative of a sufficient length of coast to be useful for most projects, while sufficiently large to filter out many spurious local effects. Several advantages are associated with the selection of a standardized shoreline reach, the most notable of these is probably the dramatic decrease in cost of computation. This is particularly important since the processes involved in nearshore wave transformation are not completely understood at the present time. Recent field evidence has suggested significant variations in wave energy occur systematically in the onshore-offshore direction.
Subject Headings: Wave spectrum | Shallow water | Wave climates | Computer analysis | Data analysis | Ocean waves | Filters
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