A Synthesis on Wave Run-Up

by Le Méhauté,
Robert C. Y. Koh,
Li-San Hwang,

Serial Information: Journal of the Waterways and Harbors Division, 1968, Vol. 94, Issue 1, Pg. 77-92

Document Type: Journal Paper


A critical survey of existing theories and experiments on wave run-up is carried out. The theories of run-up of nonbreaking waves are analyzed first. Breaking criteria and the main theories of run-up of breaking waves are presented, including the theories for the run-up of a bore, the nonsaturated breaker theory, and the numerical method for calculating run-up. This set of various theories is compared with experimental investigations. A simple case illustrates how the wave run-up can be enhanced by resonance effects.

Subject Headings: Breaking waves | Wave runup | Numerical methods | Geomatic surveys | Resonance

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