Generation of Wind Wave

by Robert L. Wiegel,
Ralph H. Cross,

Serial Information: Journal of the Waterways and Harbors Division, 1966, Vol. 92, Issue 2, Pg. 1-26

Document Type: Journal Paper


The processes of wind-wave generation are examined in light of recent theoretical work by several applied mathematicians. Measurements of air pressure fluctuations over wind waves in laboratory tanks are presented, and the existence of a phase shift between the air pressure fluctuations and the water surface fluctuations (waves) is demonstrated through cross-spectral analysis of the two simultaneous records. The physical significance of the measurements and the related theories is discussed, and the relative significance of normal-pressure power transfer versus shear-stress power transfer is estimated. Measured growth rates are compared, in one instance, with those predicted by Miles' theory, and found to be in fair agreement. Finally, some of the limitations of existing theories are considered.

Subject Headings: Wind waves | Wave pressure | Wave measurement | Wave tanks | Wave generation | Wind pressure | Surface waves | Mathematics

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