Directional Spectra of Laboratory Wind Waves

by Ismail El-Sayed Mobarek,

Serial Information: Journal of the Waterways and Harbors Division, 1965, Vol. 91, Issue 3, Pg. 91-116

Document Type: Journal Paper


A method is presented for the determination of the two-dimensional spectrum of wind-generated water waves, using a four-detector array of wave gages arranged in a star shape. The method and computer program have been checked using a known theoretical wave surface. Four time series, corresponding to a hypothetical four-detector array with the same dimensions as the actual one, were developed. The directional spectrum for this theoretical wave surface was then calculated by the proposed method. This spectrum checked quite well with the input data. For the actual wave data, the estimated directional spectrum was found to be independent of the frequency of the component waves, if plotted on a normalized basis. The normalized directional spectrum was found to be described by the circular normal distribution function.

Subject Headings: Surface waves | Wave spectrum | Wind waves | Water waves | Wind forces | Water use | Computer software | Time series analysis

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