Wave Breakers on a Beach and Surges in a Dry Bed

by J. C. Freeman,
Bernard LéMehauté,

Serial Information: Journal of the Hydraulics Division, 1964, Vol. 90, Issue 2, Pg. 187-216

Document Type: Journal Paper


The problem of wave breaking and wave run-up is treated by the method of characteristics. The cases of a spilling (nonsaturated) breaker, fully developed bore traveling in shoaling water and reaching a zero depth, and surge over a dry bed are examined. Some considerations on the dam-break problem also are presented.

Subject Headings: Breaking waves | Beaches | Wave runup | Case studies | Shoals | Water management | Dam failures

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