Design Waves for Littoral Drift Models

by R. Silvester,

Serial Information: Journal of the Waterways and Harbors Division, 1963, Vol. 89, Issue 3, Pg. 37-47

Document Type: Journal Paper

Abstract: The persistent swell arriving continually at a coastline, from the ocean storm centers of the world, determines the direction of net-sediment movement. A statistical average for the characteristics of these waves is difficult to assess. For model reproduction of a local area the important wave criteria are wave periods and direction. A method of determining meaningful averages for these values is presented. A graph is included which permits the computation of wave directions without recourse to refraction diagrams. The general pattern of coastal sediment movement is exhibited in a world-wide map.

Subject Headings: Littoral drift | Ocean waves | Shores | Storms | Statistics | Permits | Computing in civil engineering |

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