Transformation of Random Wave Spectrum on Beaches

by Cheng Y. Yang, (M.ASCE),
Yun Hai Chen,

Serial Information: Journal of the Engineering Mechanics Division, 1979, Vol. 105, Issue 4, Pg. 711-717

Document Type: Journal Paper


This paper presents a new analytic solution to the problem of predicting the change of energy as random waves propagate from deep water towards the shore lines. Some relevant results of the deterministic wave theory are first reviewed along with the classical result of Longuet-Higgins on the transformation of a continuous wave spectrum based on the concepts of the conservation of energy flux.

Subject Headings: Random waves | Wave spectrum | Beaches | Hydro power | Wave propagation | Shores | Energy efficiency | Water conservation

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